It has been 2 years and it is time to change the soil.

Do you know when it is time to change the soil and/or replace the pot?

Smell Smell Smell and touch.

Smell the soil- if it does not smell like the real soil aka Manure-like aroma(follow your nose), then it is time to change the soil. In wine, we called it the “terroir”

Touch: It feels so good playing the soil with your hands. I love love love to to dig/hold/caress a good lump of clean moist dark rich -a little bit of gritty soil.

When you are going to change the soil in the pot, do not water it for a couple of days. You want the soil to be a little dry. When the soil is dry, feel it–if it feels like sandy, then you know it is time to change the soil. It shows that it has run out of the nutrients.

If you look at the pictures, I do not use any shovels or the digger. All I needed was a spoon like tool(or a big spoon) , a bucket and a tarp to prevent dirt from getting into the clean carpet.

Now- start digging with your hands. Remember when we were kids, we play on beach, oh yea- it brings back good memories of building sand castles.

When you are digging the soil with your hands, feel the soil, feel the roots-if they are soft and moist, then you got a big problem. It means the roots are rotten-decaying- and the soil is infected with “cancer”

Slowly and gently, scoop the soil out of the pot and put in the bucket.  With that big of the jade plant I have, it took me like 2 hrs to scoop  out the soil as much as I can. Yes,I have someone to hold the jade plant when the soil is quite low in the pot. Yes, the jade plant is heavy but feels so good to hold her-just like holding a nice looking naked body(LMAO)

While I was digging and scooping the soil, I feel the roots. I have to prune some of the roots. Look at the inside of the pot- are they any signs of fungus or white spots or any spots? You can clean the inside of the pot or just replace it with a bigger pot.

When to replace the pot? Common sense tells you that the roots need to grow and explore. It is advisable to use a slightly bigger pot and another good tip is—get wheels!!!

That my biggest regret- I did not have wheels roller underneath the pot. Pretty soon, I need a bigger pot, oh well, when the time comes, I will have to have a pizza party and invite some people over.

After you have scooped out the soil with your hands( yes-hands- forget about manicure for once), doesn’t it feels some kind of accomplishment seeing the dirt in your fingernails???

It is time to shower the jade plant with the good clean “organic” moist  soil packed with high nutrients and protein for her to grow bigger and produce more babies.

What kind of soil to use? Well,  you can use the any good soil from Home Depot( I do not work for HD but own stocks in them)- I have to get 2 big bags(2 cubic feet) of soil- any clean indoor potting soil is good enough.

**** Do not use any of those fertilizer sticks–it cause more harm than good to your plants. They are detrimental!!!  Why you might ask? Well, it is like “OVERFEEDING” DO YOU LIKE TO OVER FEED YOUR KIDS ?

As you know, most pets are sick not because they are underfed, but they are being overFED!!! Look at yourself in the mirror- honey–am I fat??( killer question)

The fresh soil you put in the pot has more than enough nutrients the plants need. Remember– it is  patience and lots of love that help the plant or any human being grow.

When you put the new soil in the pot- do not forcefully press the soil, just gently drop the fresh soil and let gravity takes it course. Once a while just gently pack it down.

Wait for a couple of days, then add more soil to the pot.

Do not water the soil as it is already moist out of the bag. Wait for 3-4 days and then  give a good through watering.

NOW you are done- doesn’t it feel so good to the smell of fresh soil in the house-Man I love the smell- it brings freshness and aliveness to the plants,house and you.

2 weeks ago, I had to help a couple re-pot their 10yrs old jade plant and took me like a whole day to do it. They even paid me a small fee to do it- but I really enjoyed doing it. The soil has not  being changed for 8 yrs and was in pretty bad condition, dry and sandy and worst of all, root decay. Had to cut the roots off.

Now- they are growing happily in the new pot and fresh soil.

Anyway, it took me like 2 days to do all the re-poting as I have about 10+ different kind of jade plants.
I washed down the roots and the leaves.

Since I changed the soil, the jade plant has been growing like crazy.As a matter of fact, all my my jade plants are growing very well and healthy.
Remember jade lovers, Jade Plants are living breathing beings and they will bring you happiness, success, good health and lots of prosperity– Good feng shui and Good Karma to your home and to your family and love ones.
Any questions or you need professional service from me- shoot me an email-chrisgoh@wineinwashington.com or chrisgoh@medicalczar.com aka the Jade Master.

Please check back soon  for more  of the latest pictures and I’ll even post the video too.

To all of my jade Friends, wishing you all lots of Happiness, Success, Good Health and Lots of Prosperity in this coming year.

Merry X-Mas.

Again,if you have any jade plant questions, please do not hesitate to write to me

Thanks

Chris aka The JadeMaster-chrisgoh@medicalczar.com

Finally she flowers on X-Mas Day, best present I ever had. More pictures at the Forum.

FACTS:

Jade Plant is appraised at $350kUSD

Location: Seattle, WA

Room temperature: 50-60F

Age:15yrs old

Height: 4’11”

Width” 5’ 6”

Trunk Size: 15 “

Pot size:18 X 21

Leaf size: 2-3”

Care: Water once a week in Summer and once every 2 weeks in Winter. Use good clean fertilizer .

Lots of TLC….and lots of good loving talking.

Use it as my Christmas tree

Flowering: Oct 25^th, 2008!! Whopeeee

Click here to see more pictures of Jade Plant.

Join the Forum—to upload your garden photos,view more photos and talk about gardening.

NurseryListing.com– find a nursery near you.

The jade is so big that there is no way she can be moved out of the house. She goes with the house-she is part of the house. A beautiful living breathing human being in the living room. Call me crazy all you want and yes I do talk to her all the time.

The last time I changed the soil was in 2007 and the soil I used is the one I got from Home Depot, nothing special soil—just the clean good soil.

As you can see from the pictures, I have to put the long table against the pot to prevent the pot from tipping over. She has to be transferred to a bigger, newer, and a more stable pot with wheels. Don’t ask me how I am going to do it, maybe a couple of Hulks will help me out.

During Summers, the leaves grow like crazy and buds start shooting up. I have to break the buds off. Water once a week.

During Winters, water once every 2 weeks.

No special fertilizers needed, just good old TLC.

I have given some of the shoots to my friends and all of them are doing very well.

Anyway, I think this is the largest jade plant in the world, if not, please send me your jade plant(s) pictures. You can post your pictures at Forum .

I always love Jade plants as they bring the good ying and yang, peaceful harmony to the house. See that lottery ticket at the jade flower……my time has come for the big one $$$.

I have a couple of jade plants of different varieties, the big leaf, the climbing one, the long finger leave, the spiny leaf and the small thin one.

There is one jade plant with the pink flower and it was taken at my Aunt’s house in Melaka.

Yes, I do have a big garden with lots of fruit tress and a big vegetable garden. I have Asian pear trees, regular pear tree Italian prunes, fig, apples, Rainer cherry trees, Apricot, Japanese persimmon, and who knows what. Also included are blueberry, raspberry, and strawberry, I grow lots of green beans, Chinese pea pods, Chinese spinach, zucchini, char, spinach, asparagus and more than I can remember.

I buy most of the seeds at the 99cent store , 10 packets at a dollar. How can you beat that!!!

Anyway, if you have any good garden pictures, please post at the forum and share them with us.

Regards,

Chris

chrisgoh@WineInWashington.com

If you have any questions about growing jade, shoot me an email. I am the Jade Master . Check out my other websites: www.GoodKarmaToYou.com and my funky site: www.BullShitWebsites.com

I do love growing grapes but cannot afford to own a winery.

I move mine outside after the danger of frost has past and allow them to soak up the better growing conditions out there. Though the jade plant thrives in bright light, it should be introduced to the full strength of the summertime sun gradually by sheltering it in the shade during the afternoon as the leaves acclimate to brighter conditions. Watering can be hit-or-miss because jade plants are desert dwellers adapted to abuse.

In the home in winter, the plant should be watered less often and receive fertilizer only if in a bright location. It’ll tolerate poor light conditions during winter without flinching, but do keep it on the dry side.

Jade plants grow heavy with water and eventually become top-heavy. Repotting the plant in a larger container will improve its stability, but larger pots can be a problem when space is at a premium. Another solution is to repropagate the plant and start over.

Cuttings can be taken at any season, but spring is an ideal time to propagate jade plant, especially if your plants summer outdoors. Take three to six (or even more) cuttings from the upper part of the plant. Make the cuttings as long as possible without fear of the new plant toppling over.

Rather than stick the cuttings directly into the pot, set them aside for a week to allow the cut stem to dry and seal over. When it’s time to pot, crowd all of the cuttings into a single container. (A 6-inch pot works great, but any size will work.)

Rooting hormone may speed things along, but it isn’t a requirement for rooting. Water the pot as if the cuttings had roots. (In a month or two they will.) The original plant can be discarded or, if you have room to keep it, trim it back severely and allow it to regrow from the stubs.

The most common problem of jade plant is mealybugs – an insect pest that attaches itself at the juncture of the leaf and stem. An easy control is to use cotton swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol – then go at them one at a time.

Another ailment, though certainly less common, is sometimes seen on large, old jade plants: I call it sudden limb drop. In this unusual malady, a major limb will inexplicably fall from the plant without warning. Jade plants have natural suture points on the stem, which allow them to “self-prune” as lower parts of the plant get shaded out by the upper canopy. If a plant has been dry (as it often is during winter) and then suddenly gorges itself with water, these weak sutures can snap off as the water’s weight rushes into the branch.

Several stem rot fungi and at least one bacterial disease can also cause stem collapse, but in these cases it will be easy to see a definite rotten lesion. If there’s no sign of decay, the fallen limb can be rooted. But if decay lesions are noted, trim out the affected portion and back off on your watering.

Different kind of Jade Plants:

A Tree’s Survival Depends on its Roots

Sometimes the most unlikely plants survive Nature’s challenges. Look at a live oak with huge limbs extending wide, each one weighing more than your truck. Battered from every direction, it still stands. Consider longleaf pine, the lone survivor when others of its species topple right over in winds of hurricane strength. A plant’s root system affects its resilience.

Fibrous or Tap Roots
Every rooted plant falls into one of two categories: those with one main root called a “tap,” or those with a root system that is spread out, consisting of many smaller fibrous roots. Even tap-rooted trees such as pines and cedars have some lateral roots, of course, but the root zone area is always deeper than it is wide. Fibrous-rooted trees have some major artery roots, with many smaller roots branching out from them. Each type of root system has its advantages, mostly the result of evolution to survive in the native environment. In the garden, knowing the type and extent of your plants’ roots can guide you in nurturing these all-important anchors.

Proper Fertilizing
The root zone of an oak, which has fibrous roots, extends out at least to the drip line of the tree — the point where rainwater drips off the edges of the branches onto the ground. That is where the most active roots are growing, the place to apply fertilizer in the traditional “drill and fill” method that puts granular fertilizer into holes made with an auger. Tap-rooted trees, by contrast, benefit from fertilizer placed closer to their trunks and deeper in the ground.

Treating Compaction
Roots of established trees get compacted over time. When this happens, roots die because the soil packs too tight around them, oxygen in the soil is depleted, and trees suffer. Compaction is usually the result of pressure exerted from above, such as foot traffic and parked cars. Some occurs naturally, however, as clay soils age. You should certainly park the car somewhere else, and you can usually redirect foot traffic, but root aeration may be a wise choice for older trees, even those with exposed roots. This kind of aeration is different from lawn aeration. Professionals that offer this service may be difficult to find, but are worth seeking.

Helping Trees Straighten Up
When your best efforts still result in trees bent by the wind, do not rush to pull them back up because they may rebound. But if a tree has not recovered in a few days, take action. If the roots are exposed, gently replant them, even if you must prune the tree or shrub to return it to an upright posture. Plants without exposed roots that can be gently brought back up should be straightened, by a few inches a day. Sometimes all it takes is stepping on the soil opposite the leaning side and pulling the tree back up.

Larger trees and those more bent over will need to have a soft support looped around their trunk. Install a pipe or other strong support several feet away from the trunk, pull the looped rope towards vertical support, and secure it to the pipe. Every few days, pull it closer to upright. Be aware, though, that sometimes all your efforts are in vain once the next storm arrives!

Located on approximately the same latitude (46ºN) as some of the great French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Washington State wine “Touring” country includes 9 federally recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVA’s), commonly known as appellations; three of them share territory with Oregon State. Climates of individual Washington wine regions differ dramatically, being cross cut north to south by the Cascade Mountains.

A variety of climates and soils combine with the long summer sunlight hours of northern latitudes to create prime growing regions, predominantly in the valleys and on the hillsides of areas east of the Cascade Mountain range. Washington wineries benefit from grapes ripening in these areas which experience about two more hours of summer sunlight each day than in California wine regions. Gradually cooling autumn temperatures in Washington also help wine grapes reach full maturity, while maintaining desirable acid levels.

Vineyards on the east side of the Cascades grow 99% of Washington’s wine grapes. Seven of the state’s eight official AVA/appellations are located here — the macro appellation of the Columbia Valley encompasses the smaller Yakima Valley AVA, Red Mountain AVA, Walla Walla Valley AVA, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills (Washington State’s newest appellation). The Columbia Gorge AVA begins at the western edge of the Columbia Valley AVA and continues west and south to areas along the Columbia River in both Oregon and Washington. Two other emerging regions benefit from the huge rain shadow created by the Cascade Mountains, the North-Central Washington region (often referred to as the Columbia Cascade region) and the Lake Chelan area (AVA application in process).

All totaled, Washington wine regions produce more wine grapes than any other state in the U.S., except California. Wine grapes are now the fourth most important fruit crop in Washington State behind apples, cherries and pears. The following wines are in limited distribution. Look for them when in Washington state.

Spring Barrel tasting is your chance to get a jump on tasting and purchasing some of the best wines in wine country. A visit to the Valley on this weekend will allow you to sample yet-unfinished wines from the barrel.

Barrel tasting allows tasters a sneak preview of upcoming vintages from their favorite wineries. This special weekend in the Yakima Valley features winemakers and cellar staff who are on hand to share insights and answer questions on the winemaking process. Many of the 50 participating wineries make special efforts to enhance the wine tasting experience by adding delicious cheeses, sauces, salsas, and even desserts to the mix along with special tastings and education.

As the oldest wine region, or appellation, in Washington State, Yakima Valley has many small wine towns whose residents enjoy sharing a rural lifestyle with visitors. The region produces a wide array of wine varietals grown in vineyards that range from the Yakima Valley to hillside plantings. The three-day barrel tasting allows visitors and locals to leisurely visit the numerous wineries that have made the Yakima Valley region one of the most interesting and prestigious viticultural regions in the country

This is the only Wine Buying Tip you ever need to know!!!

1. Know your store

Every wine shop is different. Different focus, different selections, different pricing structures. Choose the one that works best for you. If you are new to the wine game and every bottle on the shelf is over $50 then you are probably in the wrong place. Look for stores that have either organized wine tastings or have wine available by the glass. What better way to know if you like a wine before buying than to taste it?

2. Have a plan

Have in mind what the wine is for before you are bogged down by numerous regions, prices, etc. Are you looking for a simple wine to serve with dinner or planning a party for twenty? Knowing what you are looking for before you are in the store will help you to make better selections than just walking in and browsing until something strikes your fancy.

3. Don’t be afraid to bring resources

There is a myriad of different sources of information on wine out there and bringing some with you to the store can only help in making an informed decision. Books, magazines, brochures and even, ahem, websites provide valuable information on producers and vintages that it is impossible to keep track of. The difference between a good vintage and a so-so vintage can be the difference in a wonderful wine and a so-so one. Resources such as The Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate and even yours truly at winegeeks.com offer ratings of individual wines that can be extremely useful when selecting a wine, but remember: just because a wine isn’t rated or has a mediocre score doesn’t mean it is a bad wine. These are guidelines and someone else’s opinion.

4. Survey the land

Don’t get caught in one section of the wine store. While some locales are very well organized, many are not, and the best bargain of the day may be just around the aisle. A quick trip around the shop to gain your bearings might be a good way to make sure that nothing is missed.

5. Develop a relationship with the owner/salesperson

Never be afraid to ask for help or a recommendation. Running into the pushy salesperson may be inevitable, but usually anyone working in the store will share your enthusiasm for the grape and asking what they like may get you a great bottle of wine. Also any salesperson worth their salt can get a feel for what you enjoy after a few trips to the store or even after answering just a few well-placed questions. Return trips and evaluations of what you tried last week can help the salesperson to judge your tastes.

6. Price does not equal quality

While a monstrous price tag may be well deserved for that bottle of 20-year-old Bordeaux, wines today are increasingly priced according to start-up costs for the winery or even the level of investment from outside sources instead of quality or reputation. In fact, wines from the traditional wine growing regions are sure to be higher in price than something from a less known vineyard area regardless of how good the wine is. Use your resources!

7. Look for value regions and 2nd labels

Many wine regions are known for their ability to produce very nice wines at still reasonable prices. Spain, Australia, Argentina and Chile are just a few countries to try. Another option is to try wine from areas just outside of more well known wine growing regions. Instead of the pricey Pomerol in Bordeaux, try Lalande-de-Pomerol. Same grape (Merlot) from just down the road at a much lower price. Also, look for the 2nd labels of more established wineries. These are wines sold under a different label from a quality winery sold at a lower price, a practice quite common in Bordeaux and gaining steam in California.

8. Be willing to experiment

Trying something new can be a great way to learn about new wines and new countries. Try a recommendation from someone at the shop, sample a new region, or even go with the advice of the shelf talking card pinned next to a wine. It may be the best wine that you have ever had!

9. Buy discounted wine

Most shops offer a 10% discount on wine sold by the case, mixed or not. Look for any close-out specials or wines on sale. Because it is half-off doesn’t mean it is terrible. Wines are often sold at what the state dictates, and it may be more than what the market will bear. These may be marked down significantly before the next vintage arrives, and can offer significant savings to the consumer.

10. Buy wine online

My Wines Direct - Holiday Gift Baskets
There are numerous sites that offer online sales of wine. These sites can offer wines at considerably less than your local store or have hard to find rarities. Be forewarned: Many states do not allow point-to-point sales of wine or alcohol. Most sites will list which states they can ship to. This is a contentious issue soon to be decided by the U.S. Supreme Court, but until then make sure you read the fine print.

Well, there you have it. This is by no means all you need to know when buying wine but it will certainly help you along your way. Use these ten points and the trepidation of wine buying should fade to the bottom of your stomach like the tannins of an old port. It should be loved and looked forward to like shopping for any thing of beauty, like going to the car parts store for your ‘67 Chevy or to the jewelry store on Valentine’s Day. The best part is how much do they have at the jewelry store for less than ten dollars?

Many people think that if they’re going to store wine at home then they need a cellar. But the word “cellar” conjures up images of dark, cavernous chambers cut out of bedrock, or slick, temperature and humidity-controlled rooms lined with mahogany wine racks. All very nice, but not at all necessary. We recommend you interpret “cellar” somewhat loosely.

There are four main things to consider when storing wine: temperature, light, vibration and keeping the cork wet.

Temperature: Both red and white wine likes to be kept cool. 55°F is ideal, but more important than this magic number is that the temperature doesn’t fluctuate. Better a constant 65°F than 40° one day and 80° the next.

Light: Bright light and sunlight can damage wine as it ages in bottle, so the darker the room, the better. Total darkness is easily achieved by simply closing the lid of the case or the closet door.

Vibration: Areas subject to heavy foot traffic (or vacuum cleaners) should be avoided as wine, unlike martinis, should be neither shaken nor stirred.

Keep the cork wet: Laying your bottles down on their sides keeps the wine in contact with the cork, which in turn prevents the cork from drying out. Dry corks contract, allowing air to pass into the wine and wine to leak out. If air gets in, it renders the wine dull and lifeless and it will taste more like old sherry than wine.

If you keep these basic requirements in mind, you’ll find it remarkably easy to find a place to store your wine, and you won’t need a cellar at all. A corner of the basement, a closet in a spare bedroom, your shipping box or the cupboard under the stairs will all do nicely. And remember, the longer you plan to store your wine, the more important these factors become. If a newly-purchased wine is to be drunk in a day or two, it really doesn’t matter too much where you keep it, but if the wine is to be kept for weeks or months then find it a nice cool, dark spot.

Now, some wines require not months but many years, even decades, of bottle aging before they’re ready to drink. This is a small percentage of all the wines made, but nonetheless, it is an important one. Where you store these high quality (and often expensive) wines designed for long aging takes on a special importance if your investment is to be protected. In this case you may want to consider one of the commercially available wine storage units, which come in a variety of sizes and finishes. Another alternative is off-site storage, where you rent a locker in a temperature and humidity-controlled wine storage facility. This option is great for wines that you don’t plan to drink for some years and has the added advantage of being out of reach; a real bonus during those weak moments.

As your collection of wine grows you’ll need to keep track of it. An old-fashioned cellar book where you record each new wine that goes into your cellar and cross them off as you take them out, works just fine. These days, however, there are also numerous cellar software programs that make it easy and fun to manage your wine collection.

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